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Downhill's 200g Starfire Marineland Deep Dimension


downhill_biker

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I may be jumping the gun a little here, but I am going to start my build thread. I picked up the tank and overflows today and just was too excited to wait to start the build. I also picked up my lighting, and skimmer recently, so it is just a matter of moving it all to a new state, building a stand/canopy, and getting it all running.

 

Thanks to Jason "SULLY" at Coral Reef Pet Center in Salem, OR for getting me the tank, overflows, reflectors, and MH sockets.

 

Here is the beauty, Marineland Deep Dimension 200g Starfire tank. 4' long x 3' wide x 27" tall.

 

Marineland200116.jpg

 

Starfire Glass: I dont know how much of a difference I can see now, but hopefully it makes a big difference once I get it up and running.

 

Marineland200119.jpg

 

Corner overflow assembly and return.

 

Marineland200120.jpg

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The skimmer being used for this build will be my Aqua Euro 265. The skimmer has 2 circulation needle wheels, and a Sedra 9000 mesh mod feeding it. I dont think I will do the mesh mod again, I just don't think it helps enough to merit the wear it puts on the pump. The needle wheel works pretty well stock.

 

Skimmer004.jpg

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thanks everyone. the suspense is going to kill me. i already have planned to go "rock collecting" over in utah. they use tufa rock, which is a calcium carbonate based rock that is found naturally in utah. i will be going the next weekend after i get to salt lake. once i get the rock i will start it curing/cooking, and get the stand/canopy built.

 

siskiou, that is the plan. i will be on here daily, even though i will be over there. this will still be my home.

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I have been looking into stand designs and really like this one. It has the right amount of trim, while still being clean and modern. I probably wont do the doors with as much trim work, but the stand is nice.

 

THE PROBLEM IS...I am only going to be in Utah for 3 years, then I will be moving to Idaho and dont know if it is possible to make a stand that I can take apart, or if this is just something I will have to sell or throw away. There's no way it's going to fit through a door in one piece.

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I was going to ask about that :D

 

Looks like a nice clean, straightforward design and should look really sharp with that tank. As for moving it... I wonder if you could adapt it so that you essentially had two separate subframes screwed together - each of which was load bearing - and then skinned and trimmed it in a way that wouldn't be too hard to pull off in the future so you could split it to move it. You could still assemble the two subframes with glued joints for strength. Just thinking out loud here...

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yeah, i dont know if even halfs would fit through the door too well either, it is just going to be a huge stand. 4'long, 3' wide, and 40" tall. i was thinking along the lines of having the skin go on using clamps, like latches that you find on a tool box or tackle box. if i use enough of those, and screw the frame together, i should be able to unclip the skin and unscrew the frame.

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I'd be awfully worried about putting together a stand intended to carry about 2' date='000 pounds with only removable screws and hinges.[/quote']

 

well, i dont know if screws are weaker than nails?.? I was thinking they would be just as strong, but allow me to remove them.

 

the skin wasn't going to hold any weight anyway. it is just for looks. the 2x6 frame is going to hold the weight.

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yeah' date=' i dont know if even halfs would fit through the door too well either, it is just going to be a huge stand. 4'long, 3' wide, and 40" tall. i was thinking along the lines of having the skin go on using clamps, like latches that you find on a tool box or tackle box. if i use enough of those, and screw the frame together, i should be able to unclip the skin and unscrew the frame.[/quote']

 

Well... you probably only need one dimension narrower than the door so as long as you don't have any crazy corners to get around I would think you could split it either way - two 2x2 cubes or two 4 x 1.5 rectangles. Seems like the squares would be easier to make rigid though. As for strength, I don't think you would really loose anything with this approach as long as each piece individually is screwed and glued. The key would be making sure the two pieces are aligned and leveled before tying them together. I like the idea of the detachable skin.

 

Good Luck!

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Oh, screws are muck stronger than nails - - the first time you put them in. I have noticed that they tend to fit a little more loose the second time around.

 

But I would go with screws above nails, for sure.

 

I'm planning to make a stand from 4x4's with mortise and tenon joinery. But I'm a little paranoid.

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