Just getting into SPF and they are bleaching out. Anyone know why?

[dj_giantti]

Hello..

So I just starting to get into SPF and my acro's are turning white. Here is a little about my tank.

125g with a 55g sump
2-400w MH, & 2-250 MH, 8-65w power compacts blue actinics
Cal reactor. (my cal is @ 460pmm)
I have 4 power heads plus the two inlets from my sump that is going 1000 gph.

All of my parameters are coming up great.

The tank is almost a year old.

Can anyone help with this bleaching issue

Thanks

Brandon

[andy]

Hi Brandon, how are your nitrates and phosphates? Also, what's your total flow? When you place the acros, where in your tank are they going -- towards the bottom or up on top?

[Michael7979]

How are you acclimating your new corals?

[JasonH]

Also, how quickly are they turning white? Days? Weeks?

Are they bleaching/dying? Or is it more losing color - turning brown. If they aren't dying, are you still getting polyp extention?

Do you have a skimmer - didn't see one listed.

[dj_giantti]

Andy: My nitrates and phosphates are testing out good. I have been placing them closer to the top of my tank.

Michael: I was told I do not need to acclimate them by the people at seahorse is this statement wrong?

Jason: They seem to be turning white with in a few days or so. They turn brown at first and then they become white. I do not see any polyp coming out.

Yeah I have a skimmer that is rated for a 400g tank. The thing is huge lol its sit inside my 55g sump.

Thanks for the help guys

Brandon

[andy]

So, what's your total flow?

[Michael7979]

I am not saying what Seahorse says is wrong..... but I let the bag sit in the tank for awhile to adjust to temp. while I get my drip-bucket set.

Then I drip acclimate for 30-60 mins. I have had good luck with this since I started doing it this way.

You should also start out any new corals on the bottom of the tank and work them up into finally places over time. Just my $.02

[fishmanmike01]

How long do you think it should take to move them up? Are you talking about inches or like from the bottom to the middle to the top?

[Michael7979]

I try to move them up 1/4 of the way every week or so. Until they reach their final spot.

[CCR]

Do you run carbon? if not add it. Your perims may be good but have a contaminate from another source. I know most LFS say to "just put them in" but I to have found a greater success if you slowly acclimate any new corals inverts or fish

[Lowman]

That is a LOT of light on your tank. You should slowly be acclimating your corals to your tank. But I think you have too much lighting. What is the temperature in the tank when all those lights are on?

[dj_giantti]

Andy: How do I figure out my total flow.

Michael: I will start to acclimate my corals just as I would do my fish and see if that makes a difference. Also that make allot for since about what you said on starting them at the bottom and slowly moving them up. I will try that out is well. I am picking up two new acros tomorrow so we will see how it goes.

CCR: No I do not run carbon. How much should I add and how do I add it?

Thanks guys for the help this is great.

Brandon

[dj_giantti]

Lowman: My lighting sits about 12in away from the surface of the water. The tanks stay around 77.8 it rarely get higher then that when all the lights are in. At night the heaters tend to kick on and the tank stay around 74.6. I and getting ready to put the fans on a time so they turn off when the MHs do. I have two fans build into my hood that helps keeps it cool. One that pushing air in and one that pulls air out.

[andy]

Add up the GPH rating of all the powerheads circulating water in the tank and add the GPH (minus head loss) of the return from your sump, then divide that number by your tank (not system) volume. That'll give you your tank circulation.

I have two Koralia 3s (850 gph each), a Koralia 2 (600 gph) and and Eheim 1262 return pump (dialed way back to ~300 gph). My tank size is 55 gal. So:

((2 x 850) + 600 + 300) / 55 = 47x

The rule of thumb is that 20x is pretty much the absolute minimum for healthy, happy SPS. In my experience, SPS don't really thrive until 40x or so. When I was down around 20x I got frequent brown-outs and STN.

Also, you said your PO4 and NO3 levels were fine; just out of curiosity, what are the numbers?

[reefboy]

Make sure your not getting any PH swings or Temp swings and your Ph may test fine when lights are on but you need to test a few hours after the lights go off same with temp also are you keeping a good population of leather corals as I've seen this cause problems with sps when tank is dominated in softies.

[Lowman]

That's a pretty big temp swing in my opinion. Also, I think you should turn some of the MH off and try that. I would keep the 400 watt and half of the power compacts.

What Andy said about the flow is very important also, you have to have a ton of flow to keep healthy sps. I have in my 60 cube about 2800 to 300 gallons per hour of flow.

I think by changing those 2 things, you will have better success in sps keeping.

[reefboy]

Your lighting is running around 10watts a gallon most probably do 7-9 so that in itself can cause bleaching especially if there coming from lower lighting ,ask the person you get the corals from how many watts there running over the corals your buying then you know if you need to start at the bottom to slowly acclimate them up.

[dj_giantti]

I put my acros down lower and all of the buds started to come out. They seem to be doing a lot better. Also I added another heater to keep my tank at a more consistent temperature.

Reefboy: I only had one leather and I just traded it off for a acro frag. I think I also have my temperature problems under control now. I have been noticing a difference in all my corals.

[mrgreenthumb]

FWIW I never acclimate my corals, with a 98% success rating. Straight in they go :D!! I also have about 1500 in flow in my 90 and I have had great success with SPS. Definitely on the low side, but it works great for me. It should also be noted that i use a scwd and eductors for my reaturn. I would also be curious to know what the exact number of your nitrates, and phosphates. I think you are probably overlighting your tank as well, i would use 2 400's and 4 actinics. Thats just my 2 cents

[JasonH]

Great to hear they are doing better. I think the heaters were a good idea - 74* at night seemed a bit low. My tank is 78* at night and 80* in the day.

[R-3]

So hows everything doing Brandon? I dont know how I missed this thread :)

I agree with Jody that the amount of light could be a problem. What reflectors are you using?

I would yank the pcs also like Matt said.

Is this a 6' tank?

[dj_giantti]

R-3: Do you think you could stop by sometime and take a look @ my setup?

[dj_giantti]

Every thing seems to be doing better. Thanks for all the help guys. I will be attaching some picture here in a sec.

[R-3]

Yeah I think I still have your number in my pm box. I will call ya sometime this week. Later Ryan

[CA2OR]

I was always told to acclimate everything

[reefboy]

I was always told to acclimate everything

It is a good idea to do that be it drip method or at the least a 15 min float to temp acclimate.

[dj_giantti]

I could still use some help on my lighting. I have a 125gal tank that is 6ft long and I wanted to host mainly SPFs what combo of lighting should I use. I also want to have the show tank color.

What I have

2-400w PFO MH 2000k blubs
2-250w PFO MH 2000k blubs
8-65w power compacts blue actinics

[Michael7979]

Posted a question on the other thread.

[CA2OR]

you can try http://www.fishneedit.com/metal-halide.html