DIY Seio/Tunze stream - Lots of pics

[impur]

Ok so i've been following the maxijet mod over at RC and decided to take a crack at it. The idea is to take a maxijet and turn it into a Seio/Tunze type stream. I have a couple MJ1200 but from what i read they will be to much flow for my 55 i'm setting up. So...i'll be picking up a few MJ600-900 pumps from Sean for that. But for now, i have a crappy old Regent powerhead i thought i'd give it a try on. It actually works, how much flow, well its much more than the PH was. I still need to finish the shroud that covers the propeller. Well here is how I faired:

Walmart special
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150113.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150114.jpg

Impeller taken apart. This powerhead uses a floating magnet. Meaning it is not fixed to the stainless (and beginning to rust) shaft. The shaft stays put, the magnet and impeller spin around it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150115.jpg

[impur]

So i headed over to Eugene Toy and Hobby. Lack of inventory, so i made do with what was available and picked up an assortment of RC boat props. I also found these awesome wheels that will work great for securing the end of the shaft.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150111.jpg

Dumas boat prop try #1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150118.jpg

Impeller put back together DIY style
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150119.jpg

Attempt #1 in water. It works great, moves decent amount of water. I used a scrap piece of 1.5" ABS as a shroud/nozzle and the flow really increased. It must direct it much better.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150121.jpg

[impur]

One thing i noticed. There is no set direction for the prop to spin on this pump. Half the time it spins backward, the other half the proper way. If it spins backward, i have to make it stop and spin the other way with my fingers. A stop is going to need to be put in place to prevent the reverse spinning in the event of a power outage.

Anyway, on to the shroud. Scrap piece of 1.5" ABS fits almost perfect over the hole on the power head. So i used the dremel and made sure it would fit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150127.jpg

Might as well use the parts available. This will be how i connect the shroud to the pump
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150128.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150129.jpg

[impur]

Just need to get the flange off this intake
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150130.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150131.jpg

Perfect fit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150132.jpg

Some grinding and some superglue
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150133.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4150134.jpg

[impur]

I'm gonna let the superglue dry for tonight. Tomorrow i hope i'll get a chance to drill a bunch of holes in the shroud for the intake of water. Then we'll see what this puppy can do.

Miles

[Ahbrit]

Now that's DIY!!!!
i got a question though.....Why don't the manufacturers of these pumps do the same modifications and up their prices? (99% of people wouldn't know the simplicity of the change)

[impur]

Good question. I think its the reason that TAAM came out with the Seios.

I've got the prop cover glued up. I just need to drill it for the intake of water. I'll be doing that and posting the conclusion tonight.

[Michael7979]

I'll be waiting to see how that turns out!!

Might be a future project........

[impur]

Ok got the cover done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4160135.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4160136.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4160137.jpg

[impur]

It doesn't work as well with the cover on. I think the prop needs to be farther out from the body of the pump. This should allow much more water to be taken in. I'm going to try making just a sort of basket to cover the prop. It moves a good amount of water for this tiny thing without the cover. I need to figure out some sort of stopper that the prop will hit if it starts spinning the wrong way. When it start the wrong way it almost pulls out of the pump. Then when i let it hit my finger it goes the right way. I want to get the MJs from Sean for a little more reliable pump. This thing only runs half the time anyway.

[R-3]

Looks good Miles! Sweet Job. How much flow do you think your getting out of them? Later Ryan

[rmhuntley]

the prop should also be as close in size to the inner Diameter of the shroud as you can get.... the less gap between the prop tips and the shroud wall, the more water you will move.

[Michael7979]

I think if you had a longer prop shaft you would be OK. From the picture it looks like propeller dosen't stick out any farther than normal. Can you get a longer shaft at the Toy Shop? That should help.

[impur]

I'm going to order some .98" carbon fiber shafts today to extend it a bit. I'm also gonna work on finding a different cover, as this is the only prop i bought that fits inside this shroud. I think the other props are gonna move some serious water.

[impur]

Looks good Miles! Sweet Job. How much flow do you think your getting out of them? Later Ryan

With the shroud it doesn't do much. When removed its moving a much wider stream of water so its hard to say. I'd guesstimate about double the gph just using that small prop. This powerhead was rated at 150gph i believe.

[impur]

Ok got some stuff ordered, 48" of carbon fiber rod, and 4 more props just in case i mess up on a couple.

Carbon Fiber Rod, 24", .098 (2) [MID5707]

Plastic Prop,1/8":.19-.35 [DUM3003]

Plastic Prop,3/16":.19-.35 [DUM3004]

I'll be picking up a couple pumps from Sean this week too.


So i'll have 2 or so days till these arrive. Then its back to work!

[R-3]

Keep up the good work Miles, keep us posted. Later Ryan

[parvo99]

I've done the maxijet mod. It works awesome. If you've been following the thread on RC, using 1.5 inch schedule80 works perfectly for the maxijets. I bought some and have like 20 extra shrouds. These are very nicely made, and fit perfectly on the maxijets. If you're interested in buying them, or trading them, pm me. THanks.

http://home.comcast.net/~parvo99/shroud.jpg

[impur]

Nice! I didn't have any of the 1.5 PVC laying around so I went with the ABS and a smaller prop. Well heck its not even a maxijet!! LOL

DId you use the test cap or just cut the groove to mount to the MJ yourself? Did you use a miter saw for that? I'm going to have to use my dremel.

Can you show me a pic of your impeller/propeller on yours?

[parvo99]

My great uncle is a machinist and he has a lathe. So, he cut the groove. The 1.5 inch pvc actually is too big on the outside, and too small on the inside. My great uncle actually trimmed the outside, and inside slightly so it fits perfectly. Then I made the slots on a table saw. There's also a notch at the top for the 1/4 inch acrylic end mount. I used a 1435 octura prop. I'll try to get pictures tonight.

[impur]

Ahh lucky you! I think i'll go the easy route and use a test cap. I'll make a few shrouds, some with holes some with slots like yours. I have 4 more props coming, all Dumas. I do have a couple of the octura props too, i guess those are the ones that put out the major flow. Which prop gave you the most flow and easiest restarting?

[impur]

Got home last night to find a package on my doorstep. Luckily it wasn't corals, stupid UPS delivery.

Goodies!!! 4 props and 48" of carbon fiber rods!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4260190.jpg


I'll be doing some more work tonight!! Still need to pickup the maxijets from Sean.

[impur]

Sweet!! Got a miter saw. Now i can make some sweet looking shrouds.

[R-3]

Did you guys see this thread. Really nice job. Magnets are a sweet addition.

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14607

Later Ryan

[impur]

Yah i checked that one out before. Real nice work by that guy.

[impur]

Ok played around a little more today. I picked up the maxijets from Sean. They have a lot more power. I'm going to have to figure out a good way to attach the prop as these maxijets have a different impeller than the ones they are using on RC.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4290191.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4290192.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4290193.jpg

[impur]

It only works just barely under water right now. As it gets deeper the prop shoots out of the pump. Sometimes it starts the wrong way and just propells itself out too. So i am going to need to get a good shroud for it before i see the full possibility. Off to HD in a little bit!!

[impur]

Got the shroud all glued up. I'm going to cut some slots in it tonight and try it out. More pics to come.

[impur]

Ok here we go. I'm not done cutting the slots but its coming together nicely.

Here is the ABS fitting and PVC test cap i used
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4300194.jpg

The test cap has a lip just like the maxi intake
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4300195.jpg

A little chopping
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4300196.jpg

Mark slots
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4300197.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4300199.jpg

[impur]

The result plus some glue
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P4300200.jpg

The test cap actually had to be cut a little, it was barely too small. Either that or shave the maxi but i opted to cut the test cap
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5010201.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5010203.jpg

Perfect fit with the plane wheels
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5010204.jpg

[impur]

I'm using the dremel on the slots, i haven't picked up the miter saw yet. And its a little slower going so i'm done for the night. I'll finish it tomorrow and should be done.

[impur]

Ok so here is the finished product. Man this moves some water, and its just the mj600! I just need to do some touchup work on the shroud and attach the plane wheel to the end.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5030206.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5030207.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5030208.jpg

[impur]

Here it is in action.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5030210.jpg

I'd say its moving close to 1000gph. Here it is along side a Seio 820. The Seio is on the right
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5030212.jpg

Again Seio on the right
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P5030213.jpg

[impur]

Uses 7.5w versus 16w for the seio. Has a wider flow and can be felt farther away from the pump too.

[R-3]

Hey Miles I got 2 900's laying around you could do if ya need more practice!!!! LOL. Looks good man. I have a mitre saw if ya need to use one. Maybe sometime we can hook up and make a bunch of shrouds. Later Ryan

[impur]

That would be cool. I have a miter saw, but its in Roseburg so i just have to go pick it up. I picked up a few other fittings to use as shrouds for the 900. I'll be doing that one next with an octura prop. Its a little smaller, but has much more pitch to the blades. I got the prop all done and tried running it without a shroud and wow, those are even more powerful. Its pushing more than the 600.

These are gonna be perfect for my 55gal. I'm gonna work on the DIY seaswirl type mod next to connect them to.

[rude944]

What did you use to keep the impellor from spinning out of the transformer? What about to get it spinning in the correct direction? Are you an engineer? :)

[impur]

I used some tiny zipties to secure the plane wheel to the end of the shroud. I drilled out the center of the plane wheel to accept the impeller shaft so that holds it into the pump. As it was without the plane wheel, once the prop started spinning the force of it pushing water kept it in the pump. I starts up the correct way about 75% of the time, so when i spins backwards i just stick my finger in there to stop it and it spins correctly. Obviously i need to install a stop for that problem. But since it needs to be brought to the surface of the water to start, i didn't incorporate a stopper. I figure i'll have it running continuously anyway.

I'll get ya a few more pics tonight.

[siskiou]

Hey, this looks great!

How much $$ are in that little mod?

[impur]

Cost me about 5 bucks in parts.

[Ahbrit]

and if you were to do it again, how much time?

[impur]

With the battery powered dremel it took time, i could only cut about 1/4 of the slots at a time before the battery wore down. I need to take a short trip down to roseburg this week and i'll be picking up my miter saw, that should make it a real quick job. With the saw i'd say the whole process can be done in 20 minutes + glue time.

[rmhuntley]

it could also be done pretty easily and quickly w/ a router and routertable

[impur]

For sure. :)

[siskiou]

Did you say you were working on a DIY seaswirl, too?

[impur]

I will be once i get the shrouds cut the way i like. It will be like a seaswirl but not exactly the same. Some guys on RC are taking real slow motors, about 1-5rpm, and mounting them in a small project box. Then you extend a piece of PVC down thru the box into the tank and attach a powerhead to that, so the pump moves back and forth.

[andy]

Well, I've finally got around to taking a few pics of my try at the mod. Here's what I managed:

http://reef.eldersign.org/uploaded_images/DSC_6712.jpg

http://reef.eldersign.org/uploaded_images/DSC_6713.jpg

http://reef.eldersign.org/uploaded_images/DSC_6711.jpg

http://reef.eldersign.org/uploaded_images/DSC_6710.jpg

http://reef.eldersign.org/uploaded_images/DSC_6709.jpg

I made the shroud out of schedule 80 PVC. I used my table saw for cutting the shroud to length, cutting the groove for the "grabbers" on the Maxijet, and cutting the slits.

The crossbrace is styrene and the shaft is carbon fiber rod. I'm currently using an Octura 2035 (which I had to shave down, it was too much prop for this particular Maxijet motor) but plan on replacing it with an Octura 1435 when I can lay my hands on one.

It's really quiet and pumps a LOT of water. I'm sure it'll give even more flow when I get the new prop.

[impur]

Looks awesome Andy.

[impur]

Ok had a delay getting the miter saw, but i'll be picking it up monday and will bust out a bunch of shrouds next week :D

[andy]

I'm jealous. Cutting the shrouds evenly on a table saw is a bugger.

Edit: Oh yeah, I measured the flow (the 1gal bag method) on my MJ600 w/ shaved Octura 2035 -- flowing 750 gph.

[R-3]

Nice job Andy, those look pretty nice. Yeah a mitre saw is definately a little easier to use than a table saw for this type of application. So how many you gonna make Miles? Later Ryan

[impur]

I'll spend a few hours on it, i'll buy a 10 ft section of grey PVC, that will make probably 50 of them LOL. I'll only make 10-20 though. Once i get the depth set i should be able to bust em out real quick.

Like this (pic from mj mod on RC)
http://home.cogeco.ca/~lciraolo/what%20do%20you%20see%20II/mini-100_2360.JPG

[andy]

http://images.eldersign.org/DSC_6766.jpg

Brute-force mounting using nylon nuts and bolt, and the MJ mounting plate. Works pretty well.

[impur]

I just saw that on the RC thread, nicely done. You using the 1.25" dumas props?

[andy]

Octura 2035, but sanded down a bit -- the MJ600 couldn't drive it reliably 'stock'. I was trying to get a 1435, but since this MJMod combined with my Mag-5 return gives me a flow of 20x I'm satisfied.

[impur]

Ahh. I have a 1435 and another octura i think its a 1445. I haven't tried those yet. The dumas 1.75" prop pushes a ton of water.

[andy]

Which MJ are you pushing the dumas 1.75" with?

[impur]

mj900 ,,,,

[andy]

Have you measured the flow? I'm working toward a predominantly LPS 55gal, and don't want a Kraken-infested whirlpool in the center of my tank. Kraken love frogspawn, I hear...

[impur]

Yah my pics in this thread compare it side by side to a seio 820. I guessed it at about 1000gph.

[oldbrownies]

where are you getting your props? any ideas where i can get on on the eastside, i have no idea where there would be a hobby store out there

[oldbrownies]

east portland that is, not eastern oregon

[andy]

I got my Octuras at Tammies in Beaverton, and last time I called them they didn't seem to have restocked. I haven't found another shop in Portland that stocks RC boat accessories. I think you'd have to mailorder.

[impur]

Got mine locally and from the web. I bought out what my local hobby shop had and bought a few more online to play with.

[rmhuntley]

theres a hobby shop out in Jantzen Beach that might have them

[andy]

Tried them, they don't.

[oldbrownies]

any websites you recommend

[andy]

www.towerhobbies.com stocks Dumas props.
www.funrcboats.com stocks Octura props.

[oldbrownies]

okay, i went to towerhobbies and ordered mine, just wanted to see if anyone else knows the company before i ordered from them

[Barelycuda]

Did you check the hoby store on 181st & glisan. Just across from the albertsons on the north side. Sorry I can't remember the name but they used to have a lot of airplane stuff.

Cuda

[andy]

I called all the hobby shop in the PDX phonebook (okay... dexonline) and the only one that had RC boat props in stock was Tammies. I might have missed one, but shipping is cheap enough that it's really no big deal to order exactly what you want.

[impur]

Got my parts from horizonhobby.com. Cheaper shipping and comparable prices

Carbon Fiber Rod, 24", .098 (2) (MID5707) 1 @ $6.49
$6.49
In stock. Usually ships in 1-2 business days.
Ships out of our California warehouse.


Plastic Prop,1/8":.19-.35 (DUM3003) 2 @ $1.20
$2.40
In stock. Usually ships in 1-2 business days.
Ships out of our California warehouse.


Plastic Prop,3/16":.19-.35 (DUM3004) 2 @ $1.20
$2.40
In stock. Usually ships in 1-2 business days.
Ships out of our California warehouse.ETA late May.

Items (5)
$11.29
Shipping (US Mail)
4.99
Sub-Total


The other 4 props i got locally as well as the plane wheels. Cost of those combined is about 10 bucks. I bought a bunch of extras so you can get this mod done for real cheap by ordering only what you need.

[oldbrownies]

i would have if i would have known it was there, i ordered them online pretty cheap though

[R-3]

http://www.mjmods.com/

Take a look at that! Its a sponsor on TRT. Later Ryan

[impur]

Yah a little spendy comparitively, but if you don't have the tools or workspace thats a great alternative.

[impur]

Did some cutting tonight

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P6010128.jpg

I'll finish the endcap and prop tomorrow.

[andy]

Looking good. Have you decided how to do the "wrong-way" stopper?

[impur]

I'm just gonna use a thumb screw or something and screw it in. That way i can adjust how far it sticks into the shroud.

I made a bunch of shrouds, from 2" up to 3"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/P6010130.jpg

[R-3]

Nice job Miles! Those shrouds are looking sweet. Later Ryan

[Reefin']

just wanna say thanks for the shroud... i cant wait to see my MJ1200 in action....thanks again

Reynaldo

[impur]

No prob :D Your welcome.

Be sure to take some pics for us!!

[andy]

I received my Octura 1435 today, and replaced the shaved 2035 I was running on a MJ600. Holy Schnikies! It pushed so much water it would tornado to the surface and blow bubbles throughout the tank! I'll have to shave this one too when I get my new MJ600 from DrF&S tomorrow... I should have ordered a MJ400 instead (censored)

[impur]

Nice! I haven't made a shroud for the octura 1435 yet, but i've used it on a MJ900 so i know what you mean, TONS OF FLOW! I'm gonna use a 2" to 1.5" ABS reducer for the shroud on that prop.

[andy]

I don't see how you could have a MJ600 or stronger with one of these props within 6" of the surface of the tank without it tornado-ing. Do you guys with the mongo tanks put these dudes lower down?

EDIT: Hey, Impur... where are you finding the 2" to 1.5" ABS reducer? My local shops don't seem to stock them. A commercial plumbing supply store maybe (Like George Morland's)?

[impur]

Got em at home depot.

[andy]

Is anyone else having reliability problems with their modded MJs? Mine are starting to have trouble restarting after a power cycle, they just stutter -- one will just stop dead once in a while. They've only been in the tank for a month or so, hopefully they are just gunked up... though that seems like a very short amount of time need de-gunking.

I'm looking forward to the Tunze Nano Streams...

[impur]

What size MJ and what prop are you using?

[andy]

#1: MJ600 + shaved Octura 2035, using the original method
#2: MJ600 + Octura 1435, using the rigid airline through-the-magnet method

#1 was super reliable, always restarting no-problem. Now I have to kick-start it by raising it to the surface. This is a sign of too much prop, but it has been working just fine until recently.

#2 has never been quite right. It has a tendency to jsut stop dead intermittantly. I think I may try adding a nylon washer 'under' the impeller magnet, or maybe try making a new shroud... could be an alignment problem. A lot of people on RC seem to like the through-the-magnet method but I've had nothing but problems with it...

[impur]

I would bet too much prop on both. Maybe try upgrading to an MJ900 or a smaller prop like the dumas 1.25".

[andy]

Anyone have a couple of the Dumas 1.25" props sitting around?

[H20cooled]

I tried to make one of these and I cannot get them to work correctly. The prop will spin great out of water and then when you first put it in the water, but then any lower and it stops. If you raise it up to the surface it will start again. I have no idea why its doing this. I know that the impeller is straight because I bought the cover and top from the Maxi-mod site. The prop is the Dumas 3004 and I've tried it on the Maxijet 600 and 900.

Any ideas?

Rich

[andy]

Too much prop, H2O. I think I have a spare Octura 1435 I'll bring to the meeting tomorrow if you'd like; it should work fine on the MJ900. I'm running them on my MJ600s, and they seem a bit too much for them.

[impur]

yah the 1435 would be perfect for the 900. Use a 1200 with that prop Rich.

[H20cooled]

Andy,
That would be awesome if you had a prop that I could try out. I'll see you at the meeting...

Rich

[powdertang05]

is anyone making them i will pay for it to be done all for me. ya i know im not diying it but someone is!

[impur]

I have a bunch of projects going on right now otherwise i would.

You could check mjmods.com, they sell all the stuff all you have to do it put it together which takes maybe 2 minutes.

[vanz]

Should I get a MJ400 if it's going in my 29g? You guys make it sound like the 600 would be too much. If so...what parts should I use?

Umm...another question....you have any issues with snails crawling in and turning into seafood gumbo?

[impur]

I would go with either the 600 or 900 in your tank. Head to a local hobby shop and pickup a few smaller props. I think the 900 with an octura 1430 prop would do well in that tank.

There is no way a snail is getting into these things. The only opening has 1000-2000gph coming out of it!

[vanz]

You sure it's not overkill? I don't have sps, just softies,lps and anemones. I'll try with the 600 then.

So from the mjmod website, this is the listing of parts...did you use all the parts, or did you do away with some?

One shroud with locking baseplate
One centering cap for the shroud
One vortex shield
One nylon washer
One Kapton thrust washer
One Octura 1435 prop
100mm” of 2.5mm 316 food grade stainless steel rod (cut to the right size for the mod)
6” of .180 OD/.102 ID Carbon Fiber tube
6" of .098 Carbon fiber rod
6” of Ridged airline tube
6” of acrylic rod for use as stopper
6” of soft airline

How would you use the acrylic rod as a stopper?


I would go with either the 600 or 900 in your tank. Head to a local hobby shop and pickup a few smaller props. I think the 900 with an octura 1430 prop would do well in that tank.

There is no way a snail is getting into these things. The only opening has 1000-2000gph coming out of it!

[impur]

You don't need the vortex shield or the thrust washers. You only need either the stainless steel rod or carbon fiber rod, not both. You only need either the carbon fiber tube, or the ridged airline tube. I'd just pick up the ridged airline tube from your LFS. You can get like 2 feet for a buck. You won't need the acrylic rod for the stopper, just use a small section of the ridged airline tubing or carbon fiber rod. You should already have the airline tubing, the black tubing that comes with the MJ works perfect.

For the stopper, see my pic. I used a small piece of carbon fiber rod. You can see it in the pic on the left just below the crossmember.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/upgrade/P1010025.jpg


If the prop starts in the wrong direction, it pulls out of the MJ, hits that stopper, and gets sucked back into the MJ going the right direction.

[vanz]

Now I understand! Thanks for the clarification!

[impur]

No prob :D Happy modding (laugh)

[siskiou]

I just read on RC that someone ran their mj mods on the seio controller and it worked.
They only tried it for an hour, though, because they didn't want to ruin the brand new controller.

It'd be sweet if it worked longterm!
Are there any other controllers out there that could be tried?
Or any timers that can be set to turn the modded pump on and off at really short intervals?

[oldbrownies]

okay... I loved my mj mod (but it was temp) and now I have to say my seio 2600 is the best thing I ever put into my tank (other than water) AND, it puts out as much water as 3-4 of my MJ mods would have put out in the tank...
I was using mj 900's so it wasn't the most power full, and yes they have great flow patterns, but not really enough. would be GREAT for smaller tanks, behind the rocks flow, or flow in an area without rock or few obstuctions (like a frag tank), but my 65 gal has about 55 pounds of fiji LR and 25-30 pounds of manmade LR (which very porous would be about 45 pounds if it where fiji rock) so the tank is fairly full. All that rock causes friction of course. and I still use the MJ mod for behind the rocks flow, but the seio is so much more powerfull

[impur]

You are comparing different pumps by far. The Seio does 2600gph whereas the best you will get out of the modded MJ900 is roughly 1500gph. Try an MJ1200 with the dumas 3004 prop then you have a more fair comparison.

[R-3]

Hey Miles we need to hook up and make some of these! I have a 600, 900, and 1200. I always can get more, just wanna try em out. Let me know. Later Ryan

[Michael7979]

I would be in on making some too. Maybe a DIY at a meeting............hmmmm?

[impur]

Yah we definately should. Nyles and I have been making them the last few weekends and have worked out a lot of kinks in the construction. We just made another 3 last night.

[Nyles]

So far these have been great, I will post again in a few days, they are cycling on and off over and over. I will find a failure if there is one to be had. Ran all night last night switching on and off with no problems still going strong.

[impur]

Good deal! I think the key was how we mount them to the MJ.

[vanz]

I'm thinking i'm going to abandon this project...tunze nano stream here I come!!

[Ronjunior]

I would be in on making some too. Maybe a DIY at a meeting............hmmmm?
I would be up for it, if not at a meeting, an impromptu at someone's house soon. I have some power tools to do it here, bandsaw, miter saw, drills, etc. I have a few 1200's I'm curiuos in trying this out (now that I just superglued screens to them I found at Seahorse :). Does the flow come out in all directions on the sides or just the end? If so, has anyone tried to block the endcap to get flow on the sides? If so I'd be game, it would be just what I need for the middle of my reef to increase flow on both sides of it.

[Nyles]

Might be easier impur if you just charge a couple beers or a frag and crank them out, by the time you explain the process you could have done the thing yourself, I could be wrong but seems that would probably be the case. LOL
I may bring one to portland and rethink a milled plastic version from one of my suppliers, but thats going a little overboard. If I did that I would have to sell them and I'm not to into dealing with that. The thought has crossed my mind though.

[impur]

Ron the only way to really spread the flow out is to shorten the shroud. The slits are where the water goes into the pump, not out. I guess you could put the prop on backwards and have the intake be the end of the shroud, that way water would flow out the slits. But i would imagine that would be less than optimal flow. How about an MJmod on a swirlerstein???? Now that would do what you are looking for and be pretty bad@ss.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=799971

[impur]

No doubt Nyles. Could fill up my tank with frags pretty quickly i imagine ;)

If you go that route with the milled version let me know. You make the shrouds i'll do the impellers :D Its VERY simple to create an ebay store ;)

[Michael7979]

Hey Miles I might have a frag or two for you. (hint, hint, wink, wink, nudge, nudge)

Let me know when you get up and running........I have your green slimer still.

[impur]

Gotcha! :D

[impur]

I've been running my MJmod for a good 5 days now, the most i've run one. I'm using a octura 1435 prop, which is slightly less flow than the dumas 3004. I would guess 1300gph or so coming out of this, maybe a bit more. Its on one side of my 75 now and doing a great job of moving water all throughout the tank. Just a couple pics to show how great these work, notice the sand was completely covering the bottom of the tank before the MJ went in. And its completely silent :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/upgrade/P1010055.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/upgrade/P1010056.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/upgrade/P1010057.jpg

[dippin61]

yeh.. the problem i run into making these myself, are the centering caps, i can never get my shaft centered, so it makes too much noise.

[Nyles]

I just dropped one off for a friend to make copies, I will have a price soon I hope. If interested in a fully machined version let me know. The more that get them the cheaper they will be.

[R-3]

Nice Nyles. I thought about talking to a couple of my machinist buddies too but seems like ya got that covered. Theres a site somewhere online that has some that are 1 piece machined version and are sweet!! Ill try to find it. Later Ryan

[BADBaxter]

Nyles...
Thanks for the insight.. Are those the dishwasher racks in his tank? the ones you were talking about?
I would take a couple of those mods from you... Have cash... But lots of beer... (and I already gave you some red mushrooms :) )
Thanks again. I do need more flow!

[rmhuntley]

I could use that mod for a mj400. get me a price on a machined one:)

[Nyles]

The ones online now are $60.. Crazy I know. I can't say anything till I get a call back with rough numbers. BUT I know these will be cheaper and the machine thats makes them is different than what the online guy is using. We made these from a mj1200, but they fit the mj900 as well not sure if the tabs are the same on the mj400..... you tell me.

Dangit Bill... I already had A red mushroom (thought it was a diff color), but yours actually spread, I have had the same one in there for 6 months and it finally dropped a single mushroom. LOL Anyhow thanks for the shrooms... LOL. Had a good time last night when I have more time I will have to have some more of that crazy fermenting stuff you got laying around! LOL, thanks for inviting me over man! When I get my 996 we will race.. at the track... he he he he he

[BADBaxter]

Nyles
Keep me posted on the mods... I will try 2 or 3 before selling out to corporate america!
Yep... Always excellant Baccus products around!

[Nyles]

I will keep ya posted, It may take a while... I am considering lathe turning it on schedule 80 or do a full blown machined.

[Ronjunior]

With the large prop on a MJ1200 that Impur mentioned on another post, what kind of flow would you get on the other end of a 6' tank?

[Nyles]

I run one on each end of my 6' foot tank. one gets flow over there but I like the idea of two facing each other with water bouncing everywhere, and for the price, its a no brainer.

[Nyles]

FYI, I abandoned the machined ones since the mods we made are working so well.

[impur]

You should be able to feel it on the opposite end no problem. With the dumas 3004 you'll get 2000-2400gph and only use roughly 12 watts.

[Nyles]

Not sure, wish I had something to gauge the strength from. I would "Guess" 1500 GPM. but could be closer to 2000. :D

[impur]

I think mine is pushing 1500gph using that Octura prop. Its roughly double my Seio 820. I got the 2000-2400gph numbers from the RC thread. Those guys did the gallon bag trick to estimate the gph.

[impur]

Here is a pic of Susanne's running

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/siskiou/120G/P1030268.jpg

[R-3]

Hey Miles is this the smallest pump we can do these with? I was just wondering because of use in a nano-reef. Later Ryan

[impur]

You could easily use an MJ250 or MJ400 and get 500gph or so. The first one i did was on an MJ400.

[R-3]

I meant smaller in size. Is there any pumps out there? Or are Mj's about as small as they get? Later Ryan

[impur]

Hmmm like modding a microjet eh? I donno. I've got a couple of those tiny Tunze mini pumps that run 96gph and are the size of a credit card. I wonder if i could mod those.....

[Nyles]

They are pretty small, nobody notices my mj1200 on my tank.

[R-3]

Yeah I was just wondering. It would be really cool if you could do a microjet or those little Tunzes. Just wondering. I wanna add one more PH to my Pod and was thinking outside the box :) Later Ryan

[impur]

I'll open up one of the mini Tunze pumps this weekend and see what i can do.

[dippin61]

anyone got a cowl premade already with the centering brace already in and drilled? that my hardest part.. getting the dang thing in there center AND putting the hole for the shaft in center. so mine always vibrates like crazy. so much so that its just sitting in my garage. and i have tons of materials to make .. i have like 10 props and a couple feet of carbon fiber, all kinds of pvc and rigid airline, but every time i try to make one, it comes out so loud. lol

[Nyles]

Try another magnet, or do the airline mod (take the plastic off the magnet and run hard airline all the way through) The airline mod helps but there is only so much you can do if the magnet is off, I just replace the magnet and move on. These can run surprisingly off center and be ultra quiet but if the magnet is not true it will bounce around in the cavity.

[dippin61]

Try another magnet, or do the airline mod (take the plastic off the magnet and run hard airline all the way through) The airline mod helps but there is only so much you can do if the magnet is off, I just replace the magnet and move on. These can run surprisingly off center and be ultra quiet but if the magnet is not true it will bounce around in the cavity.


its not the magnet, cuz i can use my finger and center it while its spinning and it quiets right down. (laugh)

[Nyles]

If you didn't glue the airline then you should be able to slide it left to right to get it centered.

[impur]

Check......

[impur]

I made some additional directions for reefboy to aid in putting his mods together. Sometimes they are finicky. He suggested i put em up here so here they are!

Ok so here is how the prop assembly goes. One of those black/red ends caps goes on, the nylon washer sits on that. Then the magnet, soft airline on the ends of that, prop into the other end of the soft airline


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0428.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0429.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0435.jpg

The whole assembly should spin freely in your hand. It might have some slight friction but that will go away after running it a few days. Usually the spot that causes the most trouble is where the hard airline from the prop and the plastic tip on the magnet meet. Try to line that up so the shaft doesn't rub.

Put the assembly in the pump, and attach the shroud making sure to align the shaft into the hole in the cross member on the shroud. Be sure to leave the oring on the pump. The shroud should be real snug going over that oring, i usually have to get it wet to avoid bunching up the oring.

Here are pics of my mod all together. Notice how far down the prop is, i found that in order for the stopper to work right in the event of a power outage, the whole magnet needs to shoot out of the pump, hit the stopper and then get sucked back in and it will spin the right way.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0430.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0431.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0432.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0433.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/impur/DIY/100_0434.jpg[/

[Nyles]

Are you going to cough up the instructions to the new mod as well? he he. Cmon. This time you have to take non blurry pics. :D

[impur]

Yah, i don't have all the pics taken though since i finally got that one running right. Its been going strong for a week and a half now. I'll get those pics tonight.

[biomekanic]

Wow! Very nice.